Philosopher's Path

Right around the peak of cherry blossom season, our class ventured down the Philosophers Path, a two-kilometer long walk that traverses through the northern part of Kyoto, linking together a series of Buddhist Temples. The walk itself is highly formalized, following the edge of a canal that is lined by a seemingly endless array of cherry blossoms. The blossoms from the trees were continually falling, taking on a characteristic similar to that of snow, their remnants steadily accumulating on the grounds below. This effect was heightened by the dense stream of pink petals flowing down the canal waters.

The first stop along our walk was Ginkaku-ji, the “Temple of the Silver Pavilion.” Contrary to what its name suggests, the pavilion is composed of modest, raw materials. The original plans, to cover the exterior in a layer of silver foil, were never realized. Thus, the building exemplifies unrefined beauty. Unfortunately for us, it was undergoing routine reconstruction.

The temple also houses an extended path that traverses partway through a mountain of dense forest, where the ground is almost entirely covered by a lush blanket of moss. The colors and natural formations of this setting were lovely.

The next stop in our walk was at Honen-in, a small temple that sits protected in a secluded forest in the hills. The atmosphere was entirely separate from the excitement of the path, as the use of unrefined elements created a distinct calm. This is best exemplified by the rough gated entry, and the pair of raked sand masses beyond.

Following this we explored Anraku-ji, a temple that is famous for its beautifully manicured gardens. It was the relationship between the architecture and the garden that really made the experience worthwhile. Covered walkways connect and enclose green spaces, and the interior environments open directly to the gardens beyond. Here, one is able to relax and take in the beauty of their surroundings at their own leisure. There is something very comforting about sitting in a room full of tatami and gazing out over a pristine garden landscape.

In temples such as these, it is customary and required that one remove their shoes before exploring any of the built spaces. This formality is necessary not only for the notion of sanctity that it implies, but also to ensure the preservation of the architectural materials. Here, the beautiful woods of the temple have maintained their integrity over years of use.

Another result of this custom is a closer relationship between the individual and the architecture. When exploring the main structure of the temple, one is able to experience the materials more directly, enabling a more personal account of their visit. I felt that this was a very powerful quality, and added a completely new dimension to the space. I distinctly remember feeling the soft grain of the wood under my feet when strolling along the covered walkway.

The final stop of the day, essentially at the end of the Philosopher’s Path, was the Eikan-do temple. Housed within is a beautiful interior garden and pond. The built spaces flow around the perimeter of a garden, with verandas that allow people to rest and admire the preserved scenery.

Satellite shrines are placed into the adjacent hillside, linked by covered walkways that curve and flow in a very elegant manner. This allows for moments of interest, creating a sense of progression between spaces.