Miyajima

On the same day as our visit to Hiroshima Peace Memorial Park, we took the JR Ferry to Miyajima, a small island just ten minutes off the coast of mainland. The ocean that surrounds this area is greatly affected by strong tides, resulting in a dynamic shoreline that remains in a constant state of flux. Taking full advantage of this, the founders of the island established Itsukushima Shrine, a beautiful architectural work that is directly influenced by the changing water levels. During low tide, the shore sits beyond the island’s torii, allowing the public to walk on the damp ground directly beneath. In a matter of hours, this land becomes completely covered by ocean waters, enabling the structures to “float” neatly. The change is dramatic, giving the shrine a graceful air.

Part of what makes this whole experience so powerful is the feeling that one gets when standing on the temporary ground. While inhabiting this space, there was never a moment that I was not reminded of this impending change. The most prominent indication of this is the dark watermark along the stone perimeter walls. This is reiterated by the groupings of algae that cover the base supports of the giant torii. Together, these features enable the visitor to envision the approaching water level in relation to their current position. Most will realize that by high tide the water is deep enough to cover them completely.

Because the island is so mountainous, the majority of settlements exist as part of a small town near the shrine. Our group spent the night at a ryokan, or traditional Japanese inn, within this town. Here, we were able to experience a very Japanese style of living involving tatami, yukata (a type of kimono), and communal baths. Late in the afternoon, we received a formal dinner comprised of a number of small dishes.

That night we were able to view the torii over the calm waters of the night, its orange glow softly interrupting an otherwise dark sea. The once lively streets were now completely quiet, seemingly frozen in the bleed of light from the surrounding lanterns.

The following morning, we explored the interior of the shrine, and gazed out toward the gate while standing over the ocean waters.

By the end of the day, the tide had again pulled back, inviting visitors to explore the temporary shoreline.