Ujigami Byodo-in

The next study trip took place in the city of Uji. Upon our arrival, we encountered a picturesque waterway lined on one side by cherry blossoms in full bloom. The setting was calm, only to be interrupted by the occasional passage of Japanese tour boats traveling upstream.

At Ujigami, we saw what is considered to be the oldest Shinto shrine in existence. The aesthetic interest in these buildings lies within the beauty of their roof features, the majority of which consist of a dense layer of packed soil and a mossy cover. The roof of the hall of worship was especially graceful, as it presented gradual, draping curves with an added angular protrusion near the ends.

Following this, our class paid a visit to Byodo-in to see the Pheonix hall, a beautiful architectural piece whose formal expression is closely tied to the ideas inherent to Buddhist theology. The name is derived from the building’s likeness to a phoenix, with a grand rectangular volume that is flanked by two l-shaped wing corridors and a tail corridor. The effect of this association is heightened by the presence of a large reflecting pond that flows around the base of the structure. In this manner, the building gains a sense of lightness appropriate to that of a ground of worship.

Inside the main hall is a large statue of a meditating Buddha, carved completely out of Japanese Cypress and covered in gold leaf. Along the walls hang small wooden reliefs of celestials, each displaying an intricate, unique design. When staring at the walls, one is able to make out the faint trace of a mural that has faded away, a product of its own lengthy existence. In fact, the entire building has stood virtually untouched since its completion in 1053. I was fully impressed that an impermanent material such as wood can withstand so many years without losing its integrity.