Nijo Castle, Townhouse, and Kuma

Although we had previously visited Nijo Castle during the night, it was not until we returned for a day visit that its true nature was revealed. As a military fortification, the castle was seen as a means to directly signify power, thereby instilling social control through its presence. This is immediately noted by the size of the fortifications - stone walls of staggering height and scale, all surrounded by a large moat. At the core of the arrangement sits the monumental palace, previously home to the Tokugawa shoguns in Kyoto.

While the intent was politically driven, many of the planted features at Nijo follow the principles of the borrowed landscape, allowing for a great deal of pretty garden scenery. The cherry blossoms and elaborate greenery stand in stark contrast to the austere nature of the castle, effectively softening its image.

That same day, we explored Shijo Kyomachiya, a restored Kyoto townhouse that sits virtually undisturbed amidst the exciting urban fabric. Currently home to a restaurant and small shop, the building provides an accurate view of the historical merchant house. Although it stands directly across from a high rise, the charm of the townhouse remains.

Our final stop for the day was Cocon Karasuma, an interior renovation by Kengo Kuma. Scattered across the ceiling are simple, circular skylights, the perimeter of each covered by a warm laminate. The natural daylight effectively brings these elements to life, allowing the veneer to glow naturally.