Ise Shrine

The first of our study tours consisted of a full day visit at the sacred grounds of Ise. For background, Ise Jingu is a secluded complex consisting of a large number of Shinto shrines, each dedicated to an individual deity. It is centered on two main shrines, Gekû and Naikû, both of which are enshrouded from public view. Although many come to the site, the majority of visitors are active followers of the religion.

Our visit began at the grounds of Gekû, the shrine dedicated to the deity of harvest. Because the surrounding area is considered holy, it is customary for one to cleanse their hands in the ablution spring before entering. A short distance away from the fountain lies a modest wooden torii gate, a formalized entry to the lush forest ahead. Once they have passed through it, the visitor becomes enveloped from the outside by a dense layer of trees. This sort of natural growth fills the entirety of the site, making one feel as though they are in a distant landscape, far from civilization.

One thing that I had not realized prior to our visit was the sheer size of the grounds. When walking along the gravel path, one feels as though they are on a long journey. This is due not only to the depth of the surrounding landscape, but also to the emphasis placed on the spatial sequence. Beyond every bend, there exists another shrine, each crafted in a manner just as beautifully as the last. These structures lay protected beyond layers of fencing, and as a result, remain undisturbed and pure.

Observing the prayer ritual heightened our experience even further, as it brought active, animate qualities to the site. At the head of each shrine, individuals will stop briefly to conduct a silent, internal prayer. Once finished, the worshipper will make two low bows followed by two pronounced claps. Though beautiful in its own right, the effects of the prayer are amplified even further by the multitudes of people conducting them, often giving way to simultaneous claps in separate locations.

After exploring the grounds of Gekû, our group hopped on a bus that took us to the site of Naikû, the most sacred Shinto Shrine in existence. Dedicated to the sun goddess, Amaterasu Omikami, its importance is made all the more evident by the grand passage through the grounds. Here, the elements of the procession occur on a much larger scale. Instead of limiting the ablution ritual to a simple fountain, one is drawn to a large riverbank of pure water. Torii gates are placed as markers along the path to signify transitions. The climax of the journey occurs with the arrival at a grand stairway of large stones, the formalized passage to the main shrine.

Because it is so sacred, Naikû sits protected beyond layers of fencing, none of which the general public is allowed beyond. Therefore, the most we were able to see was a corner of the roof, which extended above the line of fencing. We did, however, watch as a woman was allowed further into the grounds to conduct her own prayer.

Prior to our visit, I had some notion of what Ise was like, but my ideas were based on mere images that failed to speak to the true character and spirit of the place. I left with the understanding that I had severely underestimated its grandeur.

Osaka Field Trip

On Saturday we took a train down to Osaka for the day. It was a 40 minute train ride, but only cost 400 yen (roughly 4 dollars) one-way. The subway systems here are very developed, yet often very confusing. It's a very good thing that we're not alone, because it would be very easy to take a wrong turn somewhere and get lost. Usually maps are partially in English, but there have been instances where we were not so lucky, in which case it was necessary to ask a random stranger for directions.

As one might guess, the only full language spoken here is Japanese. Yet, English is also taught in schools. Its use is not uncommon either, as much of the signage involves a synthesis of both languages. As a result, many Japanese speak some amount of English (Some more fluently than others). The use of English text is normally limited to names of products or businesses, and the only instance of full sentences are clear aides in helping tourists avoid being completely oblivious to what is going on.

So back to Osaka... After having stood for a good 40 minutes on a warm, overcrowded train (Not to mention the fact that we had all layered up for the cold night ahead), our group vouched to walk the remaining mile and get some fresh air. Although I'm not sure exactly what street we were on, it's character was not all that different from American cities like San Francisco. There were at least 6 lanes of traffic at one point, which is the largest amount of continual open space I have witnessed thus far in a Japanese urban setting. Efficiency was still at a maximum, though, as the entire avenue was one-way traffic. Another proof of this was the crazy freeway overpass that we walked under... nested on top of some sort of commercial building.

The openness didn't last long, however, because soon we were walking on a typical crowded, one-way street between buildings. These streets are really "shared" spaces between people, bikes, and cars, and are the standard for the smaller avenues throughout Japan. The lines demarcate the separation of pedestrian and vehicular traffic, but people tend to walk in the center until vehicles move through.

Don took us to a beautiful concrete work by Tadao Ando. From the outside, it was no more than a simple rectangular volume.

The interior, however, revealed a deep and quiet volume of still space, only to be disturbed by a procession of individuals circulating up and down the exposed stairwell. It was truly amazing, and the scale of it all was very humbling. The space itself felt as though it was frozen... a timeless wonder tucked into a peripheral avenue of Osaka.

That night we went to the heart of downtown Osaka, which proved to be a completely overwhelming experience. I don't think an explanation can truly do the place justice. It was, in two words, "vibrant" and "chaotic."

Today we had our first formal Japanese language class, which was both fun and informative. We also received a workbook and grammar exercise book, both of which are packed with information that will prove to be valuable. It would be awesome to learn the language, and is something that I would seriously consider undertaking upon leaving here.

Tomorrow we will be taking a train down to Ise to hopefully get a glimpse of the Shinto Shrine, a building that is very significant to our own studies of Japanese Architecture.

Kyoto

Japan is everything I could have hoped for and more.

Although I have only been here for 2 days, the experiences have made it feel much longer. I attribute this to the fact that everything I am seeing is entirely unfamiliar. Each of our activities, like walking around town, exploring a mini mall, or even buying goods at a convenience store, have been completely redefined to the smallest detail. Amenities like drink vending machines (which are literally everywhere) present a variety of intriguing possibilities. It's often hard to make a decision, as everything looks so interesting. This is echoed throughout the organization of the city of Kyoto. There are so many streets and alleyways that it would be utterly impossible to venture through them all, yet the appeal to do so strong. At night, public spaces transform into a play of colorful lights, sounds, and excitement. There is seemingly no end to it all, and I often feel as though I am embedded in an infinite maze.

The Japanese truly value the small amount of space that they possess. In the mornings, Shop owners are sweeping and scrubbing the storefronts. Trash is picked up daily, and it is nearly impossible to find a loose piece of waste on the ground. It's amazing how immaculate the streets are. Green spaces are rare, yet their occurrence is never overlooked. There are quite a few waterways that flow through the city, each of which are lined with grass and trees, presenting the opportunity for one lane of traffic (including cars, bikes, and pedestrians) to travel alongside. It's really quite beautiful.

There are some funny things...

Cars are awesome, yet it is still somewhat entertaining to see that most of what people drive are in a miniaturized form. The squished vans are the most notable of these, where the body appears compressed from the front, back, and sides, causing it to appear stretched vertically. The front end is literally a foot beyond where the driver sits. I have conceded that I want to take one home, but that would never fly in the U.S. (Not to mention the fact that the driver sits on the right side).

Our hotel room is tiny, yet big enough for the two of us that are living in them for the next two weeks. The bathroom was literally a capsulated module that was plugged in. It's all very tiny, and I find myself bumping into things whenever I take a shower. What's more, when you step up into the room (about a six inch rise) your head is 6 inches from the ceiling. When you're in the shower/bath, you are practically touching it.

Television is amusing, although we can't understand any of it. The commercials are really the best part, all of which are completely random. I cannot do it justice by explaining, but most attempts at watching involve laughter, and I'm not sure whether it's intentional or not. It is, in one word, quirky.

We walked around much of kyoto today, and found that our hotel is very close to many of the amenities that we will be using. There is also a great deal of shopping and a public market only a few blocks away. In addition to exploring, we got to meet with our language professor today, who will be instructing us for the next four weeks. Our classroom is located in a very small, traditional japanese house that is crammed in between the neighboring buildings, a common theme that runs throughout the urban fabric of the dense Japanese city. It is about as authentic as you can get, with tatami mat floors through most of the interior.

After meeting our language professor, we went to the Nishiki Market, a narrow public marketplace that offers goods and exotic foods. For those new to the area, it would be nearly impossible to stumble upon, as there is very little exposure to the public environment. We got there by walking down a typical one-way street, where the only clue of its existence was a subtle overhang.

Turning the corner revealed a long expanse of colors, food displays, and crowds of people.

We tried a couple unusual items, including takoyaki, which is prepared by embedding a piece of squid into batter, and cooking it briefly over a tray of half-spherical molds. The results are round balls that are just strong enough to hold the hot batter and squid on the inside. They were delicious.

Tomorrow we will be taking a tour of Osaka (where we initially landed), which is about a half hour train ride from our hotel. It is very exciting that there is so much for us to do, and this is just the beginning. It's very surreal being here, and I don't think that feeling is going to cease at all.

I am thankful to all who have supported me in this trip. Hopefully, I will be able to share my experiences often. I hope you enjoy reading.